The good molas generally have some sort of foundation under them and reverse appliqué is used. There are several layers. But I am finding on many of the smaller molas that are clearly made for the tourist trade, there is no foundation, and the work is just appliquéd on, sometimes with some embroidery stitching, but it definitely is not the same. Here is a good example of one I have. I think if you wanted to make something that was a contemporary piece with the look of a mola, this might be a good way to start. It would be nice on jackets, jeans or other clothing. You can click on the mola to see a larger view.